Warning for Sea-Side Corrosion (2020 Update)
This video was shot by Gianluca Piras (one of the Sardinian most active climbers and bolters) in January 2017 on the main crag in Masua. It shows clearly how rusted and dangerous these stainless steel bolts have become. Corrosion affects all stainless steel bolts but, on sea-side and south-facing crags, the process is accelerated by heat, humidity and salts.
Oa recent Facebook post, Maurizio Oviglia warned climbers NOT TO CLIMB on a number of sea-facing crags due to old bolts and advanced corrosion.
MEDIUM RISK ON FEW ROUTES ONLY:
- Millennium Cave (April 2021: Maurizio Oviglia is currently rebolting)
- El Chorro
- Arcadio
- Cala Fuili sectors “Puschtra” and “Raoni”
- Biddirirscottai (April 2021: avoid routes that are not rebolted in titanium)
CRAGS TO AVOID INCLUDE:
- Cala Luna (both port and caves)
- Cuenca del Cabron (Buggerru, HIGH RISK)
- Cala Spinosa (Capo Testa, HIGH RISK)
MULTI-PITCHES TO AVOID IN CALA GONONE:
- Oceano Mare
- Apriti Cielo
- Black Cimingiones
All 304 steel bolts placed longer than 10 years ago should now be replaced with more resistant 316 stainless steel (or very expensive Titanium) bolts. There are many people now active in Sardinia who are re-bolting using their own funds, and some local administrations are slowly catching up on the issue.
If you want to expand on the Corrosion Argument, we recommend reading this great article by Climbing Magazine: Built to last? The hidden dangers of climbing bolts (Jeff Achey,
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