Climbing in Alghero - Capo Caccia

Simone Sarti on Nonno Pepino (7a) Foto Mattia VaccaThe main climbing area in Alghero is the sector Casarotto, on the sea cliffs in Capo Caccia. The Casarotto is located about 10 kilometers north of the city and was firstly  bolted in the eighties. It has over 40 problems on red and white limestone, often on vertical or overhanging angles. The most popular area has a cave starred by extreme overhanging 7 and 8 graded problems.

Beginners routes start from easy 5b and 5c grades, moving on quickly to a multitude of 6 grades.

The majority of overhanging problems in the cave were rebolted in 2014 by Maurizio Oviglia, thanks to the support of many Sardinian climbers. The sea cliffs in Capo Caccia become slippery and uncomfortable on humid day. Hence it is better to avoid climbing when the sirocco wind blows, waiting for the mistral wind to dry it out.

Monteleone Rocca Doria

Monteleone Rocca Doria

Martina Cufar climbing in Roccadoria. Photo by Maurizio Oviglia. www.pietradiluna.com

Driving 30 minutes from Alghero it is possible to reach the best crag in north-west Sardinia. The crag, named Rocca Regina is located on the west side of a self-standing flat mountain, topped with the ancient village of Monteleone Rocca Doria and surrounded by the quietness of the lake Temo.

If the panorama is not enough for you to fall in love with Rocca Doria, you will love its climbs. The sandstone crag is higher than 40 meters and marked by a myriad of big and small holds. To date there are more than 60 problems, from easy 5a to very demanding 7c+, offering the possibility to enjoy the climbing to both beginners and experts.

Other climbing sectors (not so close to Alghero)

This must be said: a part for a few sectors in Capo Caccia and the wonderful Rocca della Regina... there's no other climbing sector in the nort-west Sardinia that deserves a visit. Said this, local climbers around Sassari have bolted a number of crags that resemble boulders more than sport routes. Crags such as Superpippo, La Muraglia, Chighinzu and all the others rarely exceed 10 meters of height. They are often hard overhangs, 8 meters of concentrated power. But then, if this is the style you like, you're welcome to explore all the areas around Ossi, Sassari and Osilo.

Via Ferrata del Caibirol

The Via Ferrata del Caibirol has become one of the main attractions of Capo Caccia. It is a very easy and beautiful route exploring the north side of the sea cliff. The correct entrance can be found on the map above. You would need full equipment for Via Ferrata: helmet, harness, Y-shaped energy-absorbing lanyard and gloves

Time: 4 hours
Length: 400m
Gain: 20m
Difficulty: easy

VIa Ferrata del Caibirol

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