Climbing in Baunei

Baunei - Villaggio GallicoBaunei hosts 11 sport-climbing sectors and various multi-pitches. The majority of sectors are located along the road that goes from Baunei to Pedra Longa, including the popular Villaggio Gallico, Creuza de ma, Campo dei Miracoli, Monte Oro and Monte Scoine. All sectors are located very close to the sea, with more than 150 problems to choose from.

The most popular and accessible crags are Villaggio Gallico and Campo dei Miracoli, packed with long 6 graded routes.

At the bottom of the road you will be facing the enormous rock Pedra Longa, bolted with 2 awesome multipitches and a great traverse at the base. But the best crag lays just a few minutes walk to the north. Turn left and you'll be shocked by BIG WALL Punta Giradili.

You may have heard of its famous problems Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, Wolfgang Gullich or Mediterraneo. Have a look at the table below for a longer list of multipitches in Baunei.

Punta Giradili - multipitches

Punta Giradili is the crag with the longest multi-pitches in Sardinia. It is 400 meters high (13.000 feet) and has a wealth of 15 multi=pitches in total, some of which are most probably the best in the whole of south Italy.

Approach from the Bottom: starting from the back of the restaurant in Pedra Longa (GPS 40.027851, 9.705191) a footpath brings in about 40 minutes to the base of the crag. Look at the pictures, you cannot possibly miss the crag!

Approach from the Top: if you want to leave your car at the top of the crag, drive from Baunei to the Golgo and leave your car by the farm located at GPS 40.047302, 9.694377. An easy footpath descends in 40 minutes to the base of the crag. The majority of climbers seems to prefer this approach as it allows them to climb using one single rope only instead of two halves (no abseiling).

Multipitches at Punta Giradili

Name Height Pitches Obligatory Year Rebolted?
Parthenia 220 m 5c+ 6b+ 6a IV 5c 6a+ 5a 6b+ 2009
Oiscura... L'Eco del Baratro 230 m 7a+ 6a+ 8b(A0) 8b(A0) 7b+ 7b 7c 2013
Mediterraneo 240 m 6b+ 6a+ 6b+ 7a+ 6b 6a 6c 6c 7a+ 1996
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco 270 m 7a+ 8b 6c 8a/8a+ 7c+ 7c 7a 7c 2006
Ci Salverà la bellezza 270 m 7a 8a/8a+ 6a 7c+ 7b+ 7a+ 7b 7b 2009
Jonathan Livingstone Le Goeland 350 m 4a 5c 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a 6b+ 6a 5c 6b+ 2003
Sette Anni di Solitudine 390 m 6c+ 6c+ 6b+ 6c 6c+ 6a 6c+ 6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 6a 5c 6b+ 1995 2002
Wolfgang Gullich 390 m 6c 6b 6c+ 6a 6a+ 6b 6c 6b+ 6c+ 6b 6b 6b 3c 6b+ 1995
Senza Indugio 350 m 6c+ 5b 6c 6b 6b+ 6c+ 6b 6b 6b 3c 6b 2010
Voie des Arbres 400m Trad 1998
The Old Days 240 m 5b 5c 5c+ 6b 5c 6a 6a 6a 5c 2010
Amico Fragile 230 m 6b 6c 8b 7b 6a 6b+ 6a+ 7a 2006
Angelo Blu 380m 6c 6b+ 6c 7a 7b 6b+ 6b 6c 3c 7a 2009
Il Senso dell'erotismo nel corso del III millennio 90 m 7a 6c+ 7a 6c+ 1999
Intelligenza Emotiva 260 m 6c+ 7b 6b 6a 4c 7b+ 7a+ 7c+ 6b+ 7a 1998
Sa Costa 'e S'Aidu 410 m 5c III 6b III 6b+ 6a 6a+ Moving to the right: 6b 6b 4b 6b 2014
Saratoga Direct 410 m 5c III 6b III 6b+ 6a 6a+ Continuing Straight Up: 6c 7a 7a+ 7a 2014

Multipitches in Pedra Longa

Name Height Pitches Obligatory Year Rebolted?
Marinaio di Foresta 190 m 5b 5c 6a 5a 6a+ 5c+ 5c 5c 2013
Sambene Sardu No Cheret Meres 190 m 5c 6a 5a 5b 6b+ 5c 6b 2014