Climbing in Cala Goloritze
The rock needle in Cala Goloritze, known as the Aguglia or Punta Caroddi, is probably THE most iconic climb in Sardinia. Almost every climber visiting the island aims to climb it and if you have reached this page you probably know why! The needle is approximately 140 meters high and has 10 multi-pitches, with difficulty from 5c to 7a.
Maurizio Zanolla (aka Manolo) and Alessandro Gogna were the first couple to ascend Punta Caroddi in 1981. Their route, named Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento, is probably the most climbed route, 165 meters long, with 6 pitches on max difficulty 6b+.
The easiest multi-pitch on the Aguglia is Easy Gymnopedie, 5 pitches and 140 meters long. The route is bolted in a way to skip hard movements and lower the grade to 5c. Anyhow, some of the hard passages on the first pitch have become even harder due to holds becoming polished and slippery. The following pitches, reported 6a, 6b and 6b are much easier than the first pitch and in an extreme case, you can skip some hard moves by "milking" the quickdraw.
If you feel comfortable climbing on harder grades we’d surely recommend trying Itu Damagoni (aka Il Mio Veleno), 140 meters long on a constant 7a grade. The route was open in 1986 by Zanichelli and Nadali and partially rebolted in 2003. Lecis also added one more pitch, allowing the route to start at the base of the Aguglia rather than the back ledge. This new pitch is graded 6c+ / 7a and traverses diagonally on a really amazing overhang. We recommend getting your hands on Oviglia's guide book for more info on all multi-pitches at Punta Caroddi.
All the Multipitches on the Aguglia
Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento
|165 m||6a+ 5c 6c 6b 5a||5c||1981|
|Easy Gymnopedie||140 m||6a 6b/c 6b 6a 5c||5c||1988||2003|
|Dolce Stil Novo||135 m6c max||6b|
|Il Soffio del Baco||135m||6b+ 6c+ 6b 6a||6b+||1995|
|Sole Incantatore||135 m||6b 6b+ 6b+ 6c||6b||1995|
|Spigolo Turtchese||120 m||6c max||6b||1987|
|L’Orsetto Lavatore e il suo Compare||115 m||7b+ 7a (A0) 7a 6c||6c+|
|Itu Damagoni (Il Mio Veleno)||140 m||7a 6c+ 7a 7a||6c||1986||2003|
|Harry Pioggia di Sangue||80 m||4 7a 7a+||7a|
|No Name||50 m||6c 6c||6c|
|Was Bleibt?||50 m||7a max||7a|
|Buon anno simpatia||165 m||not well equipped||6c|
How to get there
There are three ways to get to Cala Goloritze, one is by boat, one is walking the extreme trail Il Selvaggio Blu, and one is walking about one hour down a steep downhill. If walking the Selvaggio Blu sounds a bit too extreme, do not expect us to advertise sea polluters! The route we advocate is a EE graded trail starting from the plateau known as il Golgo, above the town of Baunei. The trail runs amid limestone crags and secular oak trees, places only brigands and goats used to frequent. You’ll have to earn your way back though! It may take you longer than 90 minutes of sweating to walk back up your base camp but trust us, it is worthy!
Once you arrive to Baunei follow directions to Il Golgo. Driving uphill on a steep and wiggly road you can reach the plateau with its immense view. Driving downhill for a few kilometres reach a sign indicating Cala Goloritze, where you can leave your car and easily find directions to the trail. Just in case you like GPS coordinates of where to catch the trail, follow 40.083523, 9.678929.