Cala Gonone

Climbing in Cala Luna

Cala Gonone is a small town pressed between high mountains and the sea, surrounded by sea-cliffs and superb limestone crags. It has become Sardinian climbing sanctuary for the sheer number of climbing areas and the outstanding quality of the rock.

There are two dozens of notorious sectors, from the easy slabs of La Poltrona and Il Budinetto to the hard overhangs in Cala Luna and Fuili. With mountains and sea, you can also practice many other activities, relaxing from climbing with canyoning, hiking to just swimming and lying on a fantastic beach!

 
 

Best climbing sectors in Cala Gonone

Climbing during the summer becomes harder as some of the best sectors are exposed to the scorching sun all day long. Climbing under the sun from 10am to 4pm is impossible, it is so hot that your helmet would almost melt on your head. Wonderful places such as La Poltrona, Il Budinetto, Margheddie and other south-facing crags are barred-out all day long. Other Sectors are accessible only in the early morning or late afternoon. So, for the sake of organization, this is a list of sectors divided by time accessibility

Climbing in the afternoon

  • Placche di Flinstones
  • Biddiriscottai
  • Fuili
  • Cala Luna
  • Monte Oddeu (multi-pitch)

Climbing in the morning

  • Buchi Arta
  • S'Atha Ruja
  • Arcadio
  • Il Budinetto
  • Surtana (multi-pitch)

Climbing all day long is possible on new sector bolted in 2015 by members of Climbing Sardinia and sponsored by the camping Porto Sosàlinos. The sector was named Diedrolandia and is located on the north face of Monte Tuttavista, at the entrance of Galtelli. It includes about 30 sport routes (5c to 6c) and 4 multi-pitches.

Where to Stay - Porto Sosalinos

Due to our many climbing expeditions we have explored all the B&B, hotels and camping sites available near and in Cala Gonone and, although at short distance, the place we always return to is the only one that meets all the things we need: a gorgeous bar to spend our evenings, a peaceful pinewood to sleep quietly and a stunning beach to swim.

This is the camping Porto Sosàlinos, overshadowed by the pine trees of Cala Liberotto at less than 30 minutes from the crags in Cala Gonone and 10 minutes from the centre of Orosei. The camping is truly charming, with clean plots and toilets and a series of comfortable wooden Bungalows and Caravans to rent. The prices are very reasonable and the environment is happy and international.

Every evening climbers, kite-surfers and trekkers swarm the camping’s bar, sharing tips and advice on the best locations (ps: with the increase of beers increases also the length and difficulty of explorations) and the bar often becomes the meeting point for the organizations of group activities.

The camping Porto Sosàlinos also offers a boat-taxi service directly to Cala Luna and many other concealed beaches within the national park of the Gulf of Orosei.

How to get there

The camping Porto Sosàlinos is located behind the beach of Cala Liberotto, only 8 miles north of Orosei.

Driving from Orosei, turn right on a bend just before reaching the tiny town of Sos Alinos, following the visible directions to the camping.

Driving from Olbia, take the 131DCN towards Cagliari - Nuoro. Exit at the sign Siniscola - Orosei and drive 20 km on the road SS125. You will start noticing signs to the Camping Porto Sosàlinos. Pass the town of Sos Alinos and turn left after 1 kilometer, following the signs.

 

The best beaches

North from Porto Sosàlinos you can find a line of truly amazing beaches, starting from Cala Ginepro, Berchida, Capo Comino and La Caletta. All of these beaches have crystal clear water, fine sand and typical rock formations. 

Driving south you can reach the beaches of Fuile 'e Mare, Su Barone and Osalla

Multi-Pitches in Cala Gonone

Name Height Pitches Obligatory Year Rebolted?
La Vita Nuova 200 m 6a 6a 3b 6a 6a 2014
Alla Ricerca del Punto C 100 m 5b 6a+ 6b+ 5b 6b 2013
Innocenti Deviazioni 105 m 6a 6a+ 5b 6a+ 5a 6a 2011
Oceano Mare 160 m 6b+ 6b+ 6b 6a+ 6b+ 6b+ 1996
Black Cimigiones 170 m 5c 6c+ 6c 6b 6b 6c 7a 6b 2011
I Miei Amici Sardi 110 m 6c 6a 5c 6c 6a 6a 2004
Zanahoria 140 m 4a 6a 6a+ 6a 5b 4b 5c 2004
Millennium Bug 110 m 7a 6c+ 7b+7a+ 7a+ 7a 2010
Apriti Cielo 150 m 6b 6c 6b+ 6b 6c 6b 1996
Cumba Gianca 200 m A3 A3+ A4 A3 6b+ 6b A4 2002
L'Alchimista 210 m 6b 6c+ 5b 6a 6a + 5c 6b 3b 6a+ 1997
Mariacher 170 m 5c 5b 6c 6a 6b 6b+ 6b 1984 2005

Climbing in Cala Luna

Climbing in Cala Luna
Cala Luna is a wonderful beach dominated by a cliff pierced with enormous caves, house of fervent climbers! Although the beach is only about 5 kilometres south of Cala Gonone, you can only get there by walking 1 hour on a "Experienced" marked trail or taking a boat taxi.

Many operators offer boat taxis for about 25 euros return, but we would always recommend to avoid polluting if not necessary. For who feels like it, we offer the chance to hike! Not an easy walk, but not too hard either. The nicest of the three paths that lead to Cala Luna starts from the beach of Fuili and takes 1 hour 30 minutes.

Climbing problems in Cala Luna are split between the easy slabs above the little port (5c to 6b) and the hard overhangs at the caves (from 6c, lots of 7a and 7b, up to 8b+). Climbing in the summer months is possible only after 1 pm, on the comfort of the shade (see image above!). Avoid going to Cala Luna on humid days with sirocco wind!

  •  When: after 3 pm, when the shadow covers the crag. Avoid when the hot and humid Sirocco winds are blowing.
  • Where: once arrived on the main beach you will notice a few enormous caves over the rocks on the northern extremity. The entrances of the caves are bolted with a number of problems. These are physical and pumpy overhangs. Easier routes are bolted just above the little dock where big boats moor.

Monte Oddeu and Surtana

During the rest of the year, the area around Cala Gonone offers dozens of climbing sectors. Moving inland from Cala Gonone and driving south from Dorgali you can admire a green valley crossed by the rived Flumineddu. Facing the valley are beautiful climbs such as SurtanaMonte Oddeu and the famous Gorropu gorge.

From Dorgali follow directions to Tiscali or Gorroppu. It is 12 kilometers from town on a wiggly road. Expect driving about 30 minutes. You can leave your car by little bridge (S'Abba Arva) on the river. Turn right after the bridge and walk 10 minutes following the directions to Tiscali. Monte Oddeu will be at your left-hand side. Surtana is just over the steep path leading to Tiscali.  Surtana offers 140 meters long multi-pitches at 5 and 6 grades, including the world famous The Sound of Silence and Trans-Surtana Express.

View a list of all the multipitches in Monte Oddeu
Download the topo of La Nostra Svizzera
Download the topo of La Mia Africa

Bruncu Nieddu and Punta Cusidore

Half way from Dorgali to Oliena you can also find the famous multi-pitches at Bruncu Nieddu and Punta Cusidore. These mountains offer a completely different scenario from Cala Gonone, this is the northern edge of the Supramonte, the main mountain region in Sardinia. To arrive at the base of the Bruncu Nieddu it takes about 45 minutes walk, but if you feel like a real taste of multi-pitching, this is mandatory!

Download the topo of S'Iscultone
Download the topo of  No Potho Reposare

Lanaittu

On the west side of Surtana, 25 kilometers from Cala Gonone, lays the valley of Lanaitto. If you enjoy great scenarios you can find here your cup o' tea! The valley is very isolated and there are countless multi-pitches and sport routes on both sides of the valley. Problems vary from 5b to 7b+, in an explosion of crags and rocks! The majority of multi-pitches are completely bolted, but some have only a few spits and need to be integrated with friends & nuts.

Download the topo of Ischintzidda

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