Climbing Grades Comparison Chart

We in Sardinia (and Italy) use mostly the French chart. All guide books and Topos are only show this grading system. For Americans or trad climbers it may be difficult to relate it to their usual system and understand how hard a climbing route may be. The diagram below should make it easier to understand French / UIAA / USA systems. Some charts are slightly different from others, grading routes is not a perfect science, and comparing grading system is not precise either. Consider these charts as a rough point of reference.


French UIAA USA UK AUS
4a IV   S 13
4b IV+   HS 14
4c V-   VS 15
5a V

V+

5.9a HVS 16
5b b E1 17
5c VI- c   18
5c+ VI d  
6a VI+ 5.10a E2 19
6a+ VII- b  
6b VII c E3 20
6b+ VII+ d  
6c VIII- 5.11a b   21
6c+ c E4 22
7a VIII d   23
7a+ VIII+ 5.12a E5 24
7b b   25
7b+ IX- c   26
7c IX d E6 27
7c+ IX+ 5.13a   28
8a b   29
8a+ X- c E7 30
8b X d   31
8b+ X+ 5.14a E8 32
8c XI- b E9 33


Also this image by British Rockfax is a great attempt to compare trad climbing grades to modern sport (bolted) climbing problems. Take it as it is and always judge a new problem with due humbleness and consideration of your physical condition and climbing experience.

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