Feroce Umbra - New Multi-Pitch in Monte Oddeu
This is a translation of the description he published on his blog.
The route was created bottom-up, starting in May 2016and completing on May 4 2017. The starting bolt is located about 10 meters left of the route "Imbrago bello stretto" and stays between this and "East Asia" (further left). The Last pitch shares the same slab with a variant of the the route "Medio Verme".
Possible difficulty: 6b+/RS2/II (5c/6a obbl.)
Height: 230 m
BOLTS: maily 10mm stainless steel and zinc-coated. Must be integrated with a series of Friends from 0.3 to 3.0 BD. Some cordinos were left in place. Kevlar cordinos can be useful. All balay points are equipped with 2 fixes apart from: S3 (1 fix and one cordino), S4 (2 cordinos), S10 (2 cordinos).
ROCK: good and very good, some loose rocks on ledges. Daniele cut some bushes which may grow back.
EQUIPMENT: 2 x 60 meters half ropes (abseil through the next route "imbrago bello stretto"). 10 Quickdraws. Friends up to 3.0 BD. 4 cordinos.
WAY BACK: either walking down passing from Surtana (recommended) or via the next route "Imbrago bello Stretto" (15 meters north). This is not recommended as there may be climbers coming up on this route. It takes only 4 abseils (50m) to reach the base.