Alexander Huber sends Il Capitano
German top climber Alexander Huber has sent and sent two new clean problems on a sea cliff between Cala Gonone and Baunei.
The two problems were named Solemar (8a) and Il Capitano (8b+) and start directly from the sea, requiring a boat to host the belayer. If you think of the name Il Capitano, you may guess how important was to Huber to find a valid capitain to hold the boat still despite waves and currents!
The crag was spotted by Hyuber during a boat trip to Cala Goloritze. It is a smooth overhanging cliff about 50 meters high, with a long tufa on the lower half and a polished higher section with little holds and one miraculous big jug.
On his first attempt Huber climbed the problem protecting it with friends and skyhooks but was forced to move to a traverse to avoid a difficult section with no holds. This line was then named Solemar. Watching the line he found a way to approach it and tried it again on a direct line, sending the 8b+ Il Capitano using only friends and skyhooks.
After a difficult (and dynamic) start from the boat the problem follows the tufa for 20 meters, at the end of which it is possible to insert the last friend. The 4 meters above have little holds, in which Huber was able to insert 2 skyhooks but then… nothing: 2 meters of just polished limestone. You may have guessed the solution from the images: a long dyno, some 8 meters above the last friend!
Needless to say, Huber sent it.
I wonder now who will be the next climber to repeat it. Open challenge?
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