Climbing in Baunei
Baunei hosts 11 sport-climbing sectors and various multi-pitches. The majority of sectors are located along the road that goes from Baunei to Pedra Longa, including the popular Villaggio Gallico, Creuza de ma, Campo dei Miracoli, Monte Oro and Monte Scoine. All sectors are located very close to the sea, with more than 150 problems to choose from.
The most popular and accessible crags are Villaggio Gallico and Campo dei Miracoli, packed with long 6 graded routes.
At the bottom of the road you will be facing the enormous rock Pedra Longa, bolted with 2 awesome multipitches and a great traverse at the base. But the best crag lays just a few minutes walk to the north. Turn left and you'll be shocked by BIG WALL Punta Giradili.
Punta Giradili is the crag with the longest multi-pitches in Sardinia. It is 400 meters high (13.000 feet) and has a wealth of 15 multi=pitches in total, some of which are most probably the best in the whole of south Italy.
Approach from the Bottom: starting from the back of the restaurant in Pedra Longa (GPS 40.027851, 9.705191) a footpath brings in about 40 minutes to the base of the crag. Look at the pictures, you cannot possibly miss the crag!
Approach from the Top: if you want to leave your car at the top of the crag, drive from Baunei to the Golgo and leave your car by the farm located at GPS 40.047302, 9.694377. An easy footpath descends in 40 minutes to the base of the crag. The majority of climbers seems to prefer this approach as it allows them to climb using one single rope only instead of two halves (no abseiling).
Multipitches at Punta Giradili
|Parthenia||220 m||5c+ 6b+ 6a IV 5c 6a+ 5a||6b+||2009|
|Oiscura... L'Eco del Baratro||230 m||7a+ 6a+ 8b(A0) 8b(A0) 7b+ 7b||7c||2013|
|Mediterraneo||240 m||6b+ 6a+ 6b+ 7a+ 6b 6a 6c 6c||7a+||1996|
|Mezzogiorno di Fuoco||270 m||7a+ 8b 6c 8a/8a+ 7c+ 7c 7a||7c||2006|
|Ci Salverà la bellezza||270 m||7a 8a/8a+ 6a 7c+ 7b+ 7a+ 7b||7b||2009|
|Jonathan Livingstone Le Goeland||350 m||4a 5c 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a 6b+ 6a 5c||6b+||2003|
|Sette Anni di Solitudine||390 m||6c+ 6c+ 6b+ 6c 6c+ 6a 6c+ 6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 6a 5c||6b+||1995||2002|
|Wolfgang Gullich||390 m||6c 6b 6c+ 6a 6a+ 6b 6c 6b+ 6c+ 6b 6b 6b 3c||6b+||1995|
|Senza Indugio||350 m||6c+ 5b 6c 6b 6b+ 6c+ 6b 6b 6b 3c||6b||2010|
|Voie des Arbres||400m||Trad||1998|
|The Old Days||240 m||5b 5c 5c+ 6b 5c 6a 6a 6a||5c||2010|
|Amico Fragile||230 m||6b 6c 8b 7b 6a 6b+ 6a+||7a||2006|
|Angelo Blu||380m||6c 6b+ 6c 7a 7b 6b+ 6b 6c 3c||7a||2009|
|Il Senso dell'erotismo nel corso del III millennio||90 m||7a 6c+ 7a||6c+||1999|
|Intelligenza Emotiva||260 m||6c+ 7b 6b 6a 4c 7b+ 7a+ 7c+ 6b+||7a||1998|
|Sa Costa 'e S'Aidu||410 m||5c III 6b III 6b+ 6a 6a+ Moving to the right: 6b 6b 4b||6b||2014|
|Saratoga Direct||410 m||5c III 6b III 6b+ 6a 6a+ Continuing Straight Up: 6c 7a 7a+||7a||2014|
Multipitches in Pedra Longa
|Marinaio di Foresta||190 m||5b 5c 6a 5a 6a+ 5c+ 5c||5c||2013|
|Sambene Sardu No Cheret Meres||190 m||5c 6a 5a 5b 6b+ 5c||6b||2014|