Cala Gonone

Cala Gonone

Climbing in Cala Luna

Cala Gonone is a small town pressed between high mountains and the sea, surrounded by sea-cliffs and superb limestone crags. It has become Sardinian climbing sanctuary for the sheer number of climbing areas and the outstanding quality of the rock.

There are two dozens of notorious sectors, from the easy slabs of La Poltrona and Il Budinetto to the hard overhangs in Cala Luna and Fuili. With mountains and sea, you can also practice many other activities, relaxing from climbing with canyoning, hiking to just swimming and lying on a fantastic beach!

 
 

Best climbing sectors in Cala Gonone

Climbing during the summer becomes harder as some of the best sectors are exposed to the scorching sun all day long. Climbing under the sun from 10am to 4pm is impossible, it is so hot that your helmet would almost melt on your head. Wonderful places such as La Poltrona, Il Budinetto, Margheddie and other south-facing crags are barred-out all day long. Other Sectors are accessible only in the early morning or late afternoon. So, for the sake of organization, this is a list of sectors divided by time accessibility

Climbing in the afternoon

  • Placche di Flinstones
  • Biddiriscottai
  • Fuili
  • Cala Luna
  • Monte Oddeu (multi-pitch)

Climbing in the morning

  • Buchi Arta
  • S'Atha Ruja
  • Arcadio
  • Il Budinetto
  • Surtana (multi-pitch)

 

 

Multi-Pitches in Cala Gonone

Name Height Pitches Obligatory Year Rebolted?
La Vita Nuova 200 m 6a 6a 3b 6a 6a 2014
Alla Ricerca del Punto C 100 m 5b 6a+ 6b+ 5b 6b 2013
Innocenti Deviazioni 105 m 6a 6a+ 5b 6a+ 5a 6a 2011
Oceano Mare 160 m 6b+ 6b+ 6b 6a+ 6b+ 6b+ 1996
Black Cimigiones 170 m 5c 6c+ 6c 6b 6b 6c 7a 6b 2011
I Miei Amici Sardi 110 m 6c 6a 5c 6c 6a 6a 2004
Zanahoria 140 m 4a 6a 6a+ 6a 5b 4b 5c 2004
Millennium Bug 110 m 7a 6c+ 7b+7a+ 7a+ 7a 2010
Apriti Cielo 150 m 6b 6c 6b+ 6b 6c 6b 1996
Cumba Gianca 200 m A3 A3+ A4 A3 6b+ 6b A4 2002
L'Alchimista 210 m 6b 6c+ 5b 6a 6a + 5c 6b 3b 6a+ 1997
Mariacher 170 m 5c 5b 6c 6a 6b 6b+ 6b 1984 2005

 

 

Climbing in Cala Luna

Climbing in Cala Luna

Cala Luna is a wonderful beach dominated by a cliff pierced with enormous caves, house of fervent climbers! Although the beach is only about 5 kilometres south of Cala Gonone, you can only get there by walking 1 hour on a "Experienced" marked trail or taking a boat taxi.

Many operators offer boat taxis for about 25 euros return, but we would always recommend to avoid polluting if not necessary. For who feels like it, we offer the chance to hike! Not an easy walk, but not too hard either. The nicest of the three paths that lead to Cala Luna starts from the beach of Fuili and takes 1 hour 30 minutes.

Climbing problems in Cala Luna are split between the easy slabs above the little port (5c to 6b) and the hard overhangs at the caves (from 6c, lots of 7a and 7b, up to 8b+). Climbing in the summer months is possible only after 1 pm, on the comfort of the shade (see image above!). Avoid going to Cala Luna on humid days with sirocco wind!

  •  When: after 3 pm, when the shadow covers the crag. Avoid when the hot and humid Sirocco winds are blowing.
  • Where: once arrived on the main beach you will notice a few enormous caves over the rocks on the northern extremity. The entrances of the caves are bolted with a number of problems. These are physical and pumpy overhangs. Easier routes are bolted just above the little dock where big boats moor.

 

 

Monte Oddeu and Surtana

During the rest of the year, the area around Cala Gonone offers dozens of climbing sectors. Moving inland from Cala Gonone and driving south from Dorgali you can admire a green valley crossed by the rived Flumineddu. Facing the valley are beautiful climbs such as SurtanaMonte Oddeu and the famous Gorropu gorge.

From Dorgali follow directions to Tiscali or Gorroppu. It is 12 kilometers from town on a wiggly road. Expect driving about 30 minutes. You can leave your car by little bridge (S'Abba Arva) on the river. Turn right after the bridge and walk 10 minutes following the directions to Tiscali. Monte Oddeu will be at your left-hand side. Surtana is just over the steep path leading to Tiscali.  Surtana offers 140 meters long multi-pitches at 5 and 6 grades, including the world famous The Sound of Silence and Trans-Surtana Express.

View a list of all the multipitches in Monte Oddeu
Download the topo of La Nostra Svizzera
Download the topo of La Mia Africa

 

 

Bruncu Nieddu and Punta Cusidore

Half way from Dorgali to Oliena you can also find the famous multi-pitches at Bruncu Nieddu and Punta Cusidore. These mountains offer a completely different scenario from Cala Gonone, this is the northern edge of the Supramonte, the main mountain region in Sardinia. To arrive at the base of the Bruncu Nieddu it takes about 45 minutes walk, but if you feel like a real taste of multi-pitching, this is mandatory!

Download the topo of S'Iscultone
Download the topo of  No Potho Reposare

 

 

Lanaittu

On the west side of Surtana, 25 kilometers from Cala Gonone, lays the valley of Lanaitto. If you enjoy great scenarios you can find here your cup o' tea! The valley is very isolated and there are countless multi-pitches and sport routes on both sides of the valley. Problems vary from 5b to 7b+, in an explosion of crags and rocks! The majority of multi-pitches are completely bolted, but some have only a few spits and need to be integrated with friends & nuts.

Download the topo of Ischintzidda

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