Domusnovas

Domusnovas

wildcad

Domusnovas, with its 33 sectors, is the biggest climbing area in south Sardinia. It offers a great variety of climbing styles, from the 35 meters high superb rock in Rifondazione Strapiombista, to the short but very physical overhanging tufas at Animal House.

All sectors in Domusnovas are located around the popular Grotta di San Giovanni. This is a 800 m long tunnel that crosses a mountain just north of the town. It is a beautiful sight and it used to be a road until an enlighten administration noticed it was better to have it as a protected area instead. Just at the north entrance of the Grotta are some of the hardest routes in Italy.

Adam Ondra was one of the few who managed to climb Marina Superstar (9a+/b)

 

The Main Sectors

Probably the best sectors for those who are comfortable climbing from 6a to 7a are Rifondazione Strapiombista, La Ruota del Tempo and Chinatown. Climbing above 7a is a must to fully enjoy many other sectors. Expert climbers can have the climb of their life in sectors such as La Ruota del Tempo (40 meters high 8b), La Tana delle Tigri and Animal House.

Climbing in the Summer

Domusnovas has a few summer sectors where it is possible to climb even during the hottest days. In order of difficulty these are: La Peschiera (5b to 7a),  La Piccola Bottega degli Orrori (5a to 7a), Canneland (5c ti 8a+), Tana delle Tigri (6c to 8b) and Bronx (6c to 9b)

 

Most popular sectors

[table]

Sector, Difficulty, Style, Verticality, Orientation

Rifondazione Strapiombista, 6a to 7a, Physical, Vertical and overhangs, South-East

Chinatown, 5c to 7a,Technical, Vertical, South-East

Pollo Positivo, 5c to 7b, Physical,Vertical and Overhangs, East

La Ruota del Tempo, 5c to 8c, Physical, Vertical, West

Tana delle Tigri, 7a to 8b, Very Physical, Extreme Overhangs, West

Arrampicantro, 4a to 7b, Technical, Vertical, East

Sherwood, 4c to 7c, Classic Limestone, Vertical, East

Technicolor, 6a to 7b, Technical, Vertical, East

[/table]

Punta Pilocca

Punta Pilocca
Hidden over the mountains, north of Domusnovas, Punta Pilocca lays in complete silence, reachable only by driving on a neverending dirt track.
 
The rock is stunning and every problem is a five stars climb. Punta Pilocca has more than 120 problems, just another Sardinian pearl for climbers. 
 
The long crag includes alpine slabs and incredible tufas too! It faces south, thus best time to climb goes from autumn to spring. Avoid in July and August.
 
Recommended to all climbers. Real beginners can have fun on 4th grade slabs and experts can enjoy 7a and 7b on tufas. There are a lot of 35 meters-high problems between 6a and 6c.
 
Just 100 meters away from the crag of Punta Pilocca there’s a new sector named Il Muro dei Folletti. In 2006 the Alpine Club has bolted 4 more sectors: La Cantina, Cinecitta’, C’era una volta and Saranno Famosi.