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Climbing in Cala Luna

Climbing in Cala Luna

We must introduce saying that this article wasn't intended to encourage people to rock climb in Cala Luna but, quite the opposite, as a warning to all those who decide to hang upside-down on its old and often rusty bolts.

Unquestionably Cala Luna is one of the best beaches in the whole Mediterranean. Its caves fascinate and impress both sea-tourists and climbers and look like a magical place. The first climber to laid hands on this rocks was Manolo, back in the eighties. At the end of the nineties Enzo Lecis started bolting the first problems by the caves. We have more than 50 problems divided in two sectors: Scoglio di Luna, the grey wall on top of the dock, and Grottoni, which includes the reddish rocks where the caves are.

Timing: some problems on the north-side of Scoglio di Luna are on shade until 3pm, while the lines of the Grottoni go on shade after 2pm.

WATCH OUT!

Greasy: the red limestone of the caves becomes greasy and slippery during hot summer days. The hot and humid Scirocco wind (south-west) wets the rock and the sea-salt makes climbing extremely unpleasant. Summer is the worse season for climbing in Cala Luna.

Rust: many of the problems in the caves were equipped too long ago and the bolts may be rusty and ready to break apart. We discourage climbing and falling on these overhangs.

Grades: the grades in Cala Luna are not accessible to beginners, have a look at the table below and climb only what is in your comfort zone.

 

Scoglio di Luna

Name Grade Length (m) Bolted by Year Rebolted? Tom Say 6b - 7a 35 E.Lecis 2004 La Strada per Lula 6b 18 E.Pesci 1990 Un Mare di Infiniti Ricordi 5c 20 Lecis & Marongiu 1991 L'altro Sport 6b 20 E.Pinotti 2004 Satori 6a+ 20 E.Lecis 1991 La Prima Goccia 5c 20 E.Pinotti 2004 Fata Morgana 6b 20 E.Lecis 1991 Un Onda di Troppo 6b 25 E.Pesci ? Fessura degli Spilli 5c 20 Manolo & Zucchini 1981 Vamos a la Playa 6a - 5c 75 Pinotti & Prazzoli 1995 Fucking Beach 7a 20 E.Lecis 2004 Porno Riviste 6a+ 15 E.Lecis 2004 Come te nessuno mai 7b+ 30 E.Lecis 2004 Joey 7b 30 E.Lecis 2002 Durga Stona 6c - 7a 55 E.Lecis 2004 Mailee 6b 25 E.Lecis 2004 Vampiri di Vetro 6b+ 25 Manolo 1981

Grottoni

Name Grade Length (m) Bolted by Year Rebolted? Uno spit per ciascuno... Proj 7 Calibani & friends 2005 Chi tienne 'o mare 6c 15 M.Oviglia 1997 Pesce Abissale 6c 15 M.Oviglia 1997 Anopfel 6c 15 ? ? Mr. Nice 6c 15 E.Lecis 2004 Special Case 7a 15 E.Lecis 2004 Doctor Frank 6c+ 10 E.Lecis 2004 Strangios 7a+ 10 ? ? Rust ? 10 Avoid this line ? Il Quinto Passo 6c+ 10 E.Lecis 2004 Filu 'e Ferru 6c 10 Minetto & Michelazzo 2006 Crocchias 7b 10 Minetto & Michelazzo 2006 Ciccioneddu 7b 10 Minetto & Michelazzo 2006 Stamina 6c+ 12 E.Lecis 2004 La mia Vacanza 7c 12 Minetto & Michelazzo 2006 Torch 7b+ 12 Minetto & Michelazzo 2006 La Nausea 6c+ 12 M.Oviglia 1999 Il Guru 7a 15 M.Oviglia 1999 Gioventu Cannibale 7b+ 15 S.Sarti 1999 Eja 8b+ 30 P.Pellet & C. 2004 Aube 7c+ 15 M.Merler 1997 Esti unu pakiderma 7b+ 15 M.Merler & E.Lecis 1997 I Ronfioni 7c+ 15 M.Merler & E.Lecis 1997 Araj 7a+/b 20 M.Merler & E.Lecis 1997 El Gomone 8b 25 Andrada & Blanco 2002 Progetto Lynn Hill 8a+/b 20 Lynn Hill 1999 La Mucca Assassina 7c 20 E.Lecis 1999 Cala Luna 7b 15 S.Sarti 1997 Cala Luca 6c 22 Patrick Raspo 2009 Didi e Dada 6b 22 Patrick Raspo 2009 Sexy Bomb 7a 15 E.Lecis 2001 Power Chicken 7c 15 E.Lecis 2001 Bellas Mariposas 7c+ 15 M.Merler & E.Lecis 1997 Laura ? 20 ? ? 2009 Figa Velenosa 7a+ 20 S.Sarti & E.Lecis 1999 Baby Pipistrello 6a+ 17 S.Sarti & E.Lecis 1999 Puta Vida 7a+ 15 E.Lecis 2001 Telenovelas 7c 15 E.Lecis 2002

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