Climbing News

Le vie piu’ dure della Sardegna

Adam Ondra on Marina Superstar - The Hardest climb in Sardinia

The Hardest problems in Sardinia

Now, many people ask us "what are the hardest climbing problems in Sardinia?" to which we tended to reply very evasively, such as in 'it depends'

I know, it is annoying, you want a direct answer. One name, that's it, give me that name!

...but in effect it does depend! There's first of all the enormous gap between bouldering and rope climbing, and then, are we talking of Trad climbing, sport routes or multi-pitches? It's so crazy that climbing has already been partitioned into different sub-categories! So to reply to all, lets make a few lists (hoping it wont be a struggle to keep update!)

If you want one and one name only, that's Marina Superstar. It is a 30 meters long sport problem located at the north-end of the Grotta di San Giovanni, Domusnovas, on the climbing sector known as Bronx. It was bolted by Matteo Marini in 2007 and graded an incredible 9a+ / 9b. Marina Superstar is the continuation of two shorter problems: Nel Prossimo Futuro (12m, 8b+) and Marina. (20m, 8c+).


The Hardest Sport Routes in Sardinia
Problem Grade Sector First Ascent Year Marina Superstar 9a+/9b Bronx (Domusnovas) Adam Ondra 2008 Campo con Corvi 9a Bronx (Domusnovas) Adam Ondra 2008 Kubomaladia 8c+ Millenniom (Cala Gonone) Arthur Kubista 2007 Death Row 8c+ Millennium (Cala Gonone) Adam Ondra 2009 La Voce 8c+ Ruota del Tempo (Domusnovas) Adam Ondra 2009 Una piu del Diavolo 8c Quirra Arthur Kubista 2001 La Signora con la Falce 8c Urania (Isili) Steve Mc Clure 2004 Oltretomba 8c Bronx (Domusnovas) Adam Ondra 2008 Sapientino 8b+/8c Fuili (Cala Gonone) Rolando Larcher 2005 Illy 8b+/8c Su Telargiu 'e Oro (Baunei) Arthur Kubista 2009 Raga 8b+ Urania (Isili) Arthur Kubista 1998 Fantasia e Verità 8b+ Urania (Isili) Arthur Kubista 1998 Anime Salve 8b+ Fuili (Cala Gonone) Giuseppe Garippa 2001 Mammuthone 8b+ Millennium (Cala Gonone) Arthur Kubista 2003 Eja 8b+ Cala Luna Loic Fossard 2004
The hardest Bolted Multi-pitches in Sardinia
Name Height Grades Location First Ascent Year Hotel Supramonte 400m 7b+ 7c+ 8b 8a+ 8b 7c 7a+ 7b+ 7b 7b 6b Canyon Gorroppu Pietro dal Pra 2000 Mezzogiorno di Fuoco 270m 7a+ 8b 6c 8a+ 7c+ 7c 7a Punta Giradili Larcher Oviglia and Vigiani 2006 Aria 350m 7c 7a 6c+ 6c+ 6c+ 8a+ 8a+ 6c+ 7b+ 7a Punta Plumare Dal Pra and Nadali 2007 Oiscura 230m 7a+ 6a+ 8b 8b 6b 7b+ 7b Punta Giradili Amico Fragile 6b 6c 7c+/8a 7c+ 7b 6a 6b+ 6a+ Codula di Luna Vago and Pedeferri 2006 Intelligenza Emotiva 260m 6c+ 7b 6b 6a 7b+ 7a+ 8a 6b+ Punta Giradili Larcher 1998

In regards to the hardest boulder in Sardinia... we should wait to gather a bit more information. The Hardest boulder seems to be located in Luogosanto: Patagarroso, an 8b freed by Gabriele Moroni in 2015. View this article with a video of the Achievement!

Lascia un commento

Il tuo indirizzo email non sarà pubblicato. I campi obbligatori sono contrassegnati *