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New Multi-Pitches in Punta Pilocca

Punta Pillocca Multi-pitches

New Multi-Pitches in Punta Pilocca

The unstoppable Corrado Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis, Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia have created three new multi-pitches on the high slabs of Punta Pilocca and re-bolted two historical ones.

The first multi-pitches in Punta Pilocca were bolted in 1985 by missing Mondo Liggi, a local climber who become a legend in south Sardinia for scouting and bolting the best crags. He was often to be found roaming dirty tracks with his Fiat 500, nose-up, looking for the next crag. This is a list of the multi-pitches that the four heroes have created:Punta Pillocca Multi-pitches

Un Gioiello Smarrito
Corrado Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis 20 & 23 January 2016, ground-up

90m. Belays equipped with stainless steel bolts.
5c max (5b, 5b+, 5c)
Pleasant climbing up splendid rock past a plethora of threads and pockets,
Two 50m ropes, 8 quickdraws, cordelettes, friends to #2 BD. Numerous cordelettes have been left in-situ.
Abseil down Ombelico di Venere

Amor de Mi Vida
Maurizio Oviglia, Fabio Erriu 22 February 2016, ground-up
Prima libera Maurizio Oviglia e Daniele Turco, 23 February 2016
70m. Belays equipped with stainless steel bolts.
7a+ max, 6b obl. (5c, 6c, 7a+)
great climbing straight through the overhangs. Splendid third pitch through the steep roof.
One 70m rope, 12 quickdraws.
Abseil down the route

L’ombelico di Venere
Maurizio Oviglia, Fabio Erriu January & February 2016, ground-up
130m. Belays and entire route equipped with stainless steel bolts.
6a+ max, 5c obl. (4c, 6a, 6a+, 6a+)
Pleasant climbing past complex route finding and some traverses.
One 70m rope, 12 quickdraws.
Abseil down the route (1st rappel) then continue down Un Gioiello Smarrito

Rosa Fumetto
Mondo Liggi, Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi 1 March 1985, ground-up

Restyling carried out by Corrado Pibiri, Simone Pireddu 27 December 2015
85m. Belays equipped with stainless steel bolts. First pitch bolted, the remaining two have a mix of bolts and pegs.
5b max, 4c obl. (5a, 5b, 4c)
Superb rock, slab climbing except for one section
One 70m rope, 12 quickdraws. Take some mid-size nuts
Abseil down the route

Bilbo Baggins
M. Liggi, F. Barbaro 1984, ground-up
Restyling carried out by Corrado Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis 26 December 2015
100m. Belays equipped with stainless steel bolts.
Since this is a historic trad cimb, no new pro was added. Only the belays have been equipped with stainless steel bolts.
Three original pegs have been left in-situ, as well as numerous cordelettes on trees and threads.
Take a set of friends to #2BD.
4b max. (3c, 4a, 4b)
Superb rock, slab and crack climbing up the large Punta Pilocca shoulder.
One 70m rope, 12 quickdraws. Take some mid-size nuts
Abseil down the route

 

All info by Maurizio Oviglia @ planetmountain.com

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