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New Multi-Pitches in Ulassai

Infiniti Spazi - Climbing in Ulassai

New Multipitches in Ulassai

Infiniti Spazi - Climbing in Ulassai

The wall faces south and is located at 900m above sea level. While it is ideal in spring and autumn, climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. In summer the face receives the shade early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Approach: from Ulassai take the road towards Santa Barbara. Drive past a first lane, then a second lane with a gate. Park the car in the layby on the left, at a third lane. Follow this on foot and after 5 minutes discreetly walk through private property. At the end of the road climb over a fence and follow the path diagonally upwards towards the tower. Reach an old track. Follow this leftwards for 5 minutes to reach a giant cube of rock on the left. From here scramble upwards past cairn markers to the base of the cliff (25 minutes)

 

GUGLIA DI SU SUSSIU
Infiniti Spazi

80 m – 6a max (5c obligatory)
5c, 5b, 6a

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (26 February 2015)
Interesting climbing with a spectacular final pitch and abseil
One 55m abseil into the void
Gear: 12 quickdraws and 2 x 60m ropes, helmet

Aikido
20 m – 6c+ (5.11c)
First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (March 2015)
Overhanging crack climbing, continuous fist jamming. Only the belay is insitu.
Insitu abseil chain
Gear: Friends from 0,75 - 4. Triple sets of #3 and #4 BD

Thai Chi
25 m – 7a (5.11d)
First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (March 2015)
Overhanging crack climbing that increases in difficulty the higher you get. Fist jams lead to an offwidth finale. Only the belay and a sling are insitu.
Insitu abseil chain
Gear: Friends from 0,5 - 5. Triple sets of #3 and #4 BD

 

SU ACCARA
Incantos

110 m – 7a+ max (6b+ obbl)
7a, 6b, 6c+, 6b+, 6a

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (April 2015)
First free ascent: Gianluca Piras and Maurizio Oviglia
Demanding stamina climbing up the yellow, often overhanging face
Abseil descent, the second being 60m into the void
Gear: 12 quickdraws and 2 x 60m ropes, helmet

 

All details by Maurizio Oviglia @ Planetmountain

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