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New trad climbs near Cagliari

Four new trad routes at mount Garibaldi, Cagliari

Granite is the word! And Clean Climbing is the style!

We are very used to limestone and well-protected problems, but now we have an opportunity to try something more challenging: trad climbing on granite. The location is better known as Perda sub'e Pari, or Cima Garibaldi, on the Sette Fratelli massif near Cagliari. The new lines follow some vertical cracks on smooth reddish granite up to 80 meters tall. If you intend to climb here you better be confident with hand-jamming techniques!

Due to the overwhelming number of limestone crags, Trad Climbing is mostly unpracticed in Sardinia as well as in the rest of southern European countries. These new four lines near Cagliari give us a great chance to practice a different kind of climbing, characterize by a different approach to rock and nature. Trad Climbing is surely harder on the physical and psychological sides, but more gratifying if practiced with humble respect to rock and nature. No spits, no permanent protections, but tons of prudence, knowledge of your equipment and an embracing silence all around…

The Routes

Top Secret

80m – 6c, 6c+ - 1984
A must-do crack climb from the start to finish, not to be missed! Take two sets of Friends up to #4

Musikedda

80m – 6a, 6c, 7a+ - 2012
Complete and demanding climb, in particular the final pitch which resembles a boulder problem (but is protected by friends). Take two sets of Friends, nuts and microfriends

I Tempi Cambiano

25m – 6b+ - 2012
Single pitch with hard obligatory section. A set of Friends up to #2

Wind Chill

25m – 6b+ - 2012
Single pitch up a rounded crack. A set of Friends up to #2

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