Nuove vie Trad vicino a Cagliari

Three new trad routes at mount Garibaldi, Cagliari

Top Secret

80m – 6c, 6c+ - 1984
A must-do crack climb from the start to finish, not to be missed! Take two sets of Friends up to #4

Musikedda

80m – 6a, 6c, 7a+ - 2012
Complete and demanding climb, in particular the final pitch which resembles a boulder problem (but is protected by friends). Take two sets of Friends, nuts and microfriends

I Tempi Cambiano

25m – 6b+ - 2012
Single pitch with hard obligatory section. A set of Friends up to #2

Wind Chill

25m – 6b+ - 2012
Single pitch up a rounded crack. A set of Friends up to #2

Granite is the word! And Clean Climbing is the style!

We are very used to limestone and well-protected problems, but now we have an opportunity to try something more challenging: trad climbing on granite. The location is better known as Perd'a Asub'e Pari, or Cima Garibaldi, on the Sette Fratelli massif, near Cagliari. The new lines follow some vertical cracks on smooth reddish granite for 80 meters each and are all those who want to climb them must be confident with hand-jamming techniques.
Clean Climbing is mostly unpractised in Sardinia as well as in the rest of southern European countries, but we welcome this opportunity to practice a new approach to rock and nature. Clean Climbing is surely harder on the physical and psychological sides, but more gratifying if practiced with humble respect to rock and nature. No spits, no permanent protections, but tons of prudence, knowledge of your equipment and an embracing silence all around…

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