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Rock climbing in Cala Gonone
Cala Gonone is Sardinia’s climbing paradise. Although there are so many other beautiful places around the island, none has so many climbing crags with such a diversity of styles and grades as Cala Gonone. Over 50 climbing sectors are equipped with sport and multi-pitch routes, surrounded by venture-packed mountains and the crystalline Sardinian sea.
The first Titanium crag in Sardinia
In 2021 Climbing Sardinia, supported by its members and alpine guides Louis Piguet and Mario Ogliengo, started the massive reconstruction of the old climbing routes in Biddiriscottai. It currently counts 46 titanium routes and 5 multi-pitches. Climb safe and enjoy the view! You can read here the full article.
Which are the best easy crags in Cala Gonone?
The choice of crag mostly depends on the season. The best easy summer crags in Cala Gonone are Sardi di Cuore (it takes a long walk but the crag is nice and quiet with really long routes – shades from 2 pm), Fuili Spigolo (easy to reach but crowded and a bit slippery – shade from 2 pm) and Fuili Ferry (also crowded and on shade from 5 pm only). A great morning alternative is Buchi Arta, which is on shade until 1 pm and has long and well-equipped routes (7a max).
In the winter season, the choice widens to include La Poltrona and Budinetto, two of the oldest and most popular crags in Cala Gonone. Both sectors have technical leaning slabs, requiring not muscles but good balance and trust on one’s feet.
Where are the best multi-pitches to climb in Cala Gonone?
There are three sectors with superb multi-pitch climbing routes in Cala Gonone. Anyhow, the best ones are on the great sea cliff north of town. The easiest routes are on the sector Biddiriscottai. It has 10 multi-pitches from 6a to 6a+, some of which we rebolted using TITANIUM bolts. Moving north, on the same crag, you can find a handful of extreme multi-pitches in Millennium, ranging from 7b+ to 8c+. Following the road over Millennium to the very end, you get to the Grotta dei Colombi. You will have to abseil from the top to climb two beautiful routes such as L’alchimista (6c, rebolted in TITANIUM) and Gimcor.
…and where are challenging routes in Cala Gonone?
If you are looking for grades over 6c you’ll be spoiled with choices. Starting from the canyon of Fuili, climb the long and beautiful tufas at Pederiva or explore the overhanging routes as Thailandia, Raoni and Zedda Piras.
…but surely you have seen pictures of a large grotto overlooking the sea, with very long routes climbing huge tufas… Yes, that’s here! It’s Millennium, an incredibly wonderful place. One that you can’t forget your whole life. It is a 1-mile walk from the parking space, and there is a via Ferrata to reach the base of the crag, but it’s definitely worthy if you intend to crack that 7c!
Another crag for good physical exercise is on the other side of the tunnel, over the town of Dorgali. It’s S’atta ruja, a large wall with over 90 routes, from vertical to overhanging, ranging from 6a to 7b.
Both Millennium and S’Atta Ruja have physical routes where muscles are needed, but as we wrote above, Cala Gonone has climbs of all styles! Lovers of hard, vertical, flat slabs should test their balance skills on the tiny holds at La Poltrona Alta. It’s Nails! Microscopic holds on a vertical slab.