Domusnovas

Domusnovas

Rock Climbing in Domusnovas

The climbing area in Domusnovas is one of the largest in Sardinia. You may see its high limestone walls while driving on the motorway and be sure they are all bolted. 25 climbing sectors including slabs for beginners and extreme overhangs for top climbers.

Most climbing sectors are located around the Grotta di San Giovanni, a natural tunnel 800 meters long. On the south entrance of the Grotta there’s Arrampicantro, one of the easiest crags in Domusnovas. Parking by the church you can find the paths to reach seven other sectors, on a 30 minutes walk.

On the other side, by the northern end of the Grotta, there’s Bronx and Tana delle Tigri, two of the hardest crags in Sardinia. To reach the northern entrance you can either walk through the Grotta or drive around the mountain following directions to the Marganai forest. Once on the northern side, you can choose to visit any of the 15 climbing sectors, including the popular Animal House and the intricated lines of Ruota del Tempo.

 

When did climbing start in Domusnovas?

The first climbing problems in Domusnovas were bolted at the end of the ninety-eighties by the same group that formed in Cagliari. This included Oviglia, Sarti, Lecis, Piras and Zurru. Ruota del Tempo is one of the oldest sectors, rigged by Oviglia and Conca back in 1987. Two years later they started also the gigantic wall named Chinatown, which includes several multi-pitches. Since then, younger generations from Cagliari and Gessa (the only local climber) helped to develop a large number of crags, from extreme overhangs to easy slabs.

 

What is the best climbing season in Domusnovas?

In Domusnovas there are climbing sectors for each season. Sunny south-facing crags such as Chinatown, Rifondazione Strapiombista, Arrampicantro, and Cartoonia are the perfect climbing destination during the winter. On a sunny day isn’t weird to climb with a t-shirt only.

During the summer it is preferable to choose a shady crag, and here you can choose one of the many. Starting from the easy climbs: Ultima Catasftrofe and Pollo Positivo (shade in the afternoon), moving to more challenging problems: Animal House and Technicolor, up to the extreme overhangs in Tana delle Tigri and Bronx.

 

What are the best multi-pitches in Domusnovas? 

Unfortunately, the choice of multi-pitches in Domusnovas isn’t the greatest. As mentioned above, there are some routes in the sector Chinatown, and 3 more easy routes were bolted at Monte Acqua, on the right side of the Grotto (south entrance). All these multi-pitches are facing south, making it impossible to climb during the summer.

 

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