Biddiriscottai

Biddiriscottai

Biddiriscottai is one of the most fascinating sea-facing crags in Sardinia. Only 20 minutes’ walk from Cala Gonone, you’ll find here a huge range of climbing routes, from the easy and short to the extreme overhangs. The crag of Biddiriscottai currently includes 60 routes, spread over 250 metres of solid limestone.

The first Sardinian crag rebolted with TITANIUM !

In 2021 Climbing Sardinia started a massive redevelopment campaign, equipping the majority of routes in Biddiriscottai with titanium bolts. The campaign was funded by the association with the support of a few very generous donations and carried out by volunteers.

Climbing on Titanium bolts

If your partner wants to climb top-rope please add a carabiner on the upper anchor as shown on this picture:

The first climbing problems in Biddiriscottai were created in 1997, when G.L.Piras bolted the easy routes inside the grotto. Since then many climbers added new routes, including Oviglia, Mariacher and Piguet. Biddiriscottai is sheltered from the rain and from the mistral wind. It is the perfect climbing location in each season. Anyhow it should be avoided when the scirocco winds raise humidity as the rock can become greasy with sea moisture.

Arriving in Biddiriscottai you’ll be amazed by the rock shapes of the big grotto. It is the reign of extreme overhangs, big jugs, knee-drops and all the fancy moves you can think of. The big grotto is where the wildest routes were bolted, going under the roof and in some cases even climbing down the other side. The nicest thing though is that it is also the house of many easy routes.

Which are the best routes in Biddiriscottai?

On the right side of the grotto there are 3 of the best routes of the entire crag: La spalliera (7b+), Il mago dormiglione (7a) and Passo salso (6a+). The first one is a classic, starting on overhanging jugs and going on the inner side of the grotto.

Carrying on after the grotto there is a middle section with few nice easy routes, including Bargullich (6b) and the very extreme Il gladiatore (8a+): a wild series of tufas on a wonderful overhanging wall.

The farthest part of the crag is equipped with more athletic routes, with hard starts and distanced bolting. Among the best routes is Maledetti miserabili (6b+) a puzzling off-width that can be climbed as a typical granite route. Many consider Viva Mexico Viva Zapata (7a) as one of the best climbing routes in Sardinia. After a pull-up on no-feet, it climbs a large tufa on good holds for as long as 30 metres.

If you are looking for great climbing routes on 6a level it is also worth considering Fiore (6a+) and The hark (6a+)

Climbing Sardinia has started rebolting this crag using Titanium bolts.

 

Make sure you CLIMB on NEWLY BOLTED routes ONLY.

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Sport routes

Overhanging walls

Sun in the morning

25 min approach

Sheltered from Mistral

Climb all year

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63 routes
 in total

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

micaleddu96
12 December, 2021
★★★★★


SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

PippoPalla
2 May, 2022
★★★★★

francizedda
7 January, 2022
★★★


SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

2000

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

marc10bold
25 April, 2022
★★★

Maxr397
25 April, 2022
★★★★★

angelo263
27 February, 2022


Created by

Oviglia

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment


SPORT route

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

jakob_hoesel
9 April, 2022
★★★★


SPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Multi-pitch BOLTED

Created by

Piras

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

Obligatory

n. of pitches

Pitches grades

Pitches lenght

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

ZigaRis
22 April, 2022
★★★

Mauro Piroddi
8 December, 2021

Pjotr
16 April, 2022
★★★★

Giacomo Prestifilippo
18 March, 2022
Note: schifosamente unto , sconsiglio.

Planty
15 February, 2022
★★

francizedda
4 December, 2021

Frenxis
6 December, 2021
★★★
Note: Boulderino iniziale in strapiombetto con buone prese.

elisagisella
4 December, 2021

micaleddu96
★★★


Dangerous route!

SPORT route

Created by

Piras

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

Equipment


SPORT route

Created by

Piras

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

SPORT route

Created by

Piras

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

SPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

Mauro Piroddi
8 December, 2021

Frenxis
6 December, 2021
★★★

elisagisella
4 December, 2021

lurw
23 September, 2021
Note: Super tough start (6B boulder), rest 5b

micaleddu96
★★★★


SPORT route

Created by

Piguet

Year

2013

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

Pjotr
16 April, 2022

Frenxis
8 January, 2022
Note: Spuleggiato.

micaleddu96
29 December, 2021

Seba


SPORT route

Created by

Piras e Bigozzi

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

GoVertical
11 June, 2022

Frenxis
6 December, 2021
★★★

micaleddu96
★★★


SPORT route

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

GoVertical
10 June, 2022

Pjotr
16 April, 2022

rousseya
15 April, 2022

micaleddu96
29 December, 2021


SPORT route

Created by

Piras e Bigozzi

Year

1992

Last re-bolted

2021

Equipment

Titanium

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

GoVertical
11 June, 2022

ZigaRis
22 April, 2022