Cala Luna – Grottoni

Cala Luna – Grottoni

Please read carefully the Warning note!

Rock Climbing @ Cala Luna

Cala Luna is a large beach, characterized by five huge grottoes. The rock is overhanging with pumpy routes, with very athletic movements. As a downside, the rock gets greasy with the sea salt, especially when the scirocco wind blows.

The climbing area on the beach of Cala Luna is at the same time the most BEAUTIFUL and most DANGEROUS place where one can climb. If many years ago Cala Luna represented a dream destination for climbers, oxidation has made all bolts insecure and the often-greasy conditions of the rock make it a death trap for unaware climbers. Just like all other sea-side cliffs, salt and heath damage metals in no time at all.

Why not re-bolting in Titanium? Cala Luna was first bolted without asking permission from the local administration. Unfortunately, it is a protected landmark, also exposed to rock falls. Therefore, it cannot receive permission to be re-bolted and its destiny may be the complete removal of all equipment.

Best Season

Rather than the heath, the problem with Cala Luna is humidity. It is best to climb when the sky is blue and dry. The best wind is Mistral, which blows all humidity away. During hot summer days, the rock becomes greasy. It is very important not to go to Cala Luna when the Scirocco wind blows and the line of the horizon is not straight and crispy.

History

Its climbing potentials were discovered by Italian top climber Manolo by chance in the seventies. Manolo climbed many lines on free solo and equipped a route in 1981 …with one python only, of course! Most of the climbing routes were equipped by Enzo Lecis, Merler, and other climbers at the end of the nineties.

Access

Cala Luna is far from any road, and the majority of tourists get there by boat. Walking to Cala Luna takes 90 minutes from Buchi Arta or 2 hours from Cala Fuili.

Routes are OLD & RUSTY. Many bolts needs replaced and can be extremely dangerous. In addition, there are often rock falls from the top of the crag. Until this sector will be rebolted with Titanium please choose a different location.

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Sport routes

Overhanging walls

Sun in the morning

Approach by boat

Sheltered from Mistral

Climb all year

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38 routes
 in total

Created by

Calibani, Caboi, Traini e Soddu

Year

2005

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Oviglia

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Created by

Oviglia

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Lecis

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

micaleddu96


Created by

Lecis

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

Eddieschoen
5 August, 2022
★★★★
Note: Short, but nice!


Created by

Lecis

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Created by

Year

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

Planty
13 October, 2015
★★★★
Note: Amazing strong pull through


Created by

Lecis

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Minetto e Michelazzo

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Minetto e Michelazzo

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Minetto e Michelazzo

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Lecis

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Minetto e Michelazzo

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Minetto e Michelazzo

Year

2006

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Oviglia

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Oviglia

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Sarti

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Pellet

Year

2004

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Merler

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Merler e Lecis

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment

Expansion Steel 316

Created by

Merler e Lecis

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Merler e Lecis

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Andrada e Blanco

Year

2002

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Hill

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Lecis

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Sarti

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Raspo

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Raspo

Year

2009

Last re-bolted

Equipment

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

GoVertical
9 June, 2022
★★★★


Created by

Lecis

Year

2001

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Lecis

Year

2001

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Merler e Lecis

Year

1997

Last re-bolted

Equipment


SPORT route

Created by

T Keil

Year

2005

Last re-bolted

2010

Equipment


Created by

Sarti e Lecis

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

Pjotr
23 April, 2022
★★★★


Created by

Sarti e Lecis

Year

1999

Last re-bolted

Equipment

PREVIOUS ASCENTS

Pep
2 August, 2022
★★★★★

GoVertical
9 June, 2022
★★★★

Pjotr
23 April, 2022
★★★★


Created by

Lecis

Year

2001

Last re-bolted

Equipment


Created by

Lecis

Year

2002

Last re-bolted

Equipment


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